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Some things you don't just change

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SOMEWHERE in Binondo, in an upstairs room, mami noodles are still made fresh the old way every day. Dough is made from flour, water and egg, and kneaded with the use of a long rolling pin--so long in fact that you can ride on one end literally, which is what the workers at that restaurant, Masuki, do every day. Willen Ma, who oversees this family business started by her father in the sixties, says they call the rolling pin kabayo, the Filipino word for horse, since workers have to ride that long rolling pin to knead the dough. Why have they not upgraded to a more modern way of doing things? Willen says this old-style method is what gives their mami noodles the makunat texture. "If we do it by machine, they will come out with a fine texture. Customers can tell the difference. Lagot kami." Some 200 kilos of mami noodles are made here every day at Masuki, and these are sliced by machine after the kneading with the kabayo. The noodles are served at Masuki restaurants in Binondo and Greenhills, and are also supplied to institutional customers. It has been more than 40 years and Masuki is still around. Willen, named one of the inspiring women entrepreneurs by GoNegosyo, says their secrets just boil down to the quality of food and service. The menu is still the same, and they make sure the mami, asado chicken, tai pao, siomai, and siopao remain consistent in quality. And they plan to uphold the same consistent quality of food throughout the coming years. So if that means still doing the kneading kabayo-style, then kabayo-style it is. Some things you don't just change.

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230 Comments

200 kilos of noodles for mami and they have been in business for 40 years, well and good.

I think the owner is lacking the initiative to search a new method of processing the noodles that will result to same quality of noodles. Searching and developing new ways are essentials to avoid being stagnant.

40 years and 200 kilos, when satisfied you stop, then take all excuses kung bakit hanggang doon lang sa 200 kilos...............

@mangrey.....

i think that's not a fair assumption, but really, the taste and quality of their noodles have not change thru the years.... for me, it's 35years of eating since my lolo and parent 1st took me there.... just went there last week.... don't know if i'm gonna go there with all the traffic if they change
but i understand your point

I do not agree with Mangrey. The secret to their longevity is rooted in the fine tradition of their noodle making. If they want to up production, just add more "kabayo's" and workers. By tinkering with an age old recipe for success, you'll be surprised to learn that it is not always the most favorable route.

At the end of the day, they are preserving a fine tradition of noodle making that has made them famous and recognized. I appreciate noodles and can distinguish machine versus hand made. So I am biased towards tradition and not as much as technology infused methods when it comes to something like this.

I hope they have an apprenticeship program at their restaurant to continue their tradition and not lose it to modern day, high volume, mass produced initiatives.

If this agrument isn't enough. Take a look at Coca-Cola and the debacle they encountered when they decided to "change" the recipe. There are several more cases such as this that take a fine old tradition, then alter it to suit modern tastes, without testing the market and seeing how their end consumer reacts.

Sometimes, the old is just as good as the new.

oh dont get me wrong. am not sugesting that they change their recipe or change their way of processing their noodles. nor do isuggest that they abandone a tested tradition. that will be a blunder.

what am saying is that a search for a new method of processing the noodles that will result to same quality of noodles. searching and developing new ways are essentials for continous growth.

coca cola is a great cola drink that survive the changing world. the manner they process their cola drinks has undergone so many ways of producing
and success is theirs. production keep on rising spanning the whole world. More enployment was created. the owners never stop to find ways and means to improve their product but not the taste for this is a blunder

we have plenty of stagnant labor in our country and they are looking for enployment. the business sector must continously search means for expansion to provide labor the enployment they are looking for.

now if the owners are satisfied with the 200 hundred kilos well and good for them.
sorry nalang sa mga walang trabaho.......

i think they're mami is good...

I understand where Mangrey is coming from...he's thinking global. If the noodles are really that good...then the owners should expand their operation...produce and package more noodle to cover a wider market...this creates opportunities on a larger scale. Traditional approach is fine...but it can only provide economic benefits on a microscale.

I understand where mangrey is coming from, but it does occur to me that probably the Ma family isnt after more profit if it takes for the age-old tradition to be compromised... Anyhow, it's refreshing to know there are people like the Mas embracing tradition than change... kudos to the Ma family.

I agree with FanofTradition. If Masuki wants to expand, then they should hire more people to ride the kabayo plus other personnel supporting the workflow.

With regards to Mangrey's comment on finding new ways of processing noodles, it usually points to the direction of upgrading their technology through automation. And I think automation usually leads to letting go of manual labor in exchange of hiring a few people who will operate the machines.

Also, with regards to "hanggang 200 kilos lang", maybe more than 40 years of operations gave them the wisdom to effectively forecast the demand of their product.

@mangrey...

Are you unemployed or just showing concern to them? Have you been to Japan where old style is valued.

Naisip mo na ba na kung makakita sila ng machine to produce the same quality at more quantity, they would not think of laying off the current employees?

For these cases, kaya nila PINIPILI ang old school way ay para maipakita na hindi lahat ng bagay ay kailangan i-improve for the sake of earning money.

I'd say protecting the tradition is more valuable for this case dahil halos lahat instant noodle na ang kinalakihan. Meron pa rin mga taong pinipili ang hand made noodles so I salute them for catering to those market.

If they can find a technology that would not change the taste and quality of the noodles - then it is OK. For me, I can tell the noodle's quality by just a single bite...so probably I will not continue patronizing them if the change is good as I expected.

mangrey should just keep his comment to himself. only shows that he has many things to learn. ur economics is being done in many factories already. leave this family business alone who honors tradition more than greed.

the secret of there recipe is there smell ewen they smell not to good the taste will be the best thing will give you the unpretictable feelings of joy.

If I have to chose either - the innovative way of "technology" or the traditional way; I would rather have the traditional way in order to retain the workers-jobs that would surely help them economically.

i guess the argument ends at 200 kilos. with this volume of production, you don't need a machine to run it or other ways to improve it when it's doing fine as it is. when it's not broken don't fix it...

@mangrey:

In the Netherlands, there are enthusiasts who grind flour and grains using windmills. It's inefficient but they swear it tastes better than using a consistent machine grinder.

Food prepared the old fashioned way will always taste better (unless it's Pinoy bread. lol) Or you can always buy instant noodles awash in MSG.

Mazuki mami is good .....But Ma Mon Luk is still the "gold standard".

@Mangrey

I think your issue is not with the method but with the volume, perhpas too low at 200 kilos daily? And you assume that a newer, more efficient method will translate to a higher volume thus the need for it, am I right? What if the owner's are perfectly happy with their business and are driven by the desire to satisfy their clients more than making more money? Perhaps its not good to assume that what you find ideal is what they should desire as well.

I firmly agree that there are goodies that needs to be prepared traditionally. Puto de Oas is one... lots of tests and efforts has been made to make the process easier for mass production but with no recourse. The consistency and shelf life is compromised.

It's the process itself that makes the product distinct...

Some things you don't just change, I well agree.

the mami is not really all that good, pero if you already went through the trouble of driving (or walking) to binondo, finding a place to park, and then walking again to masuki, you somewhat have to convince yourself na masarap ang kakainin mo kasi kung hindi, eh sino ang tanga?

sa totoo lang ha, mas madami pang masarap na mami or ramen or what have you.

i really won't name names lest i be accused of astroturfing for another food establishment, pero just think about it.

to be fair, for the price okay naman, pero dadayuhin ko ba to get mami? nah. (and i actually am walking distance from them)

ang importante ang patuloy na paggawa sa ganitong paraan ay pagbibigay galang sa naiwang tradition ng mga ninuno ng pamilya.
kung babaguhin ang teknolihiya ng kanilang paggawa walang benta kasi ang sarap ng pancit na gawa sa lumang paraan ang binabalikan ng mga mga parokyano ng tindahan.

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The danger of doing it in quantity is losing--authenticity. And thats precisely why we love going back for that mami it's the traditional, slow and original way of cooking it.

am I thingking global or am thingking of filipinos going abroad for employment and became OFW. why go abroad for menial jobs when you can find job from your own country.

am I thingking global when our businessman think only of their own glory. How can this country compete when we rest on our earned Laurels.

I believed that tradition must be followed and yet nourishing the tradition for growth and not left to stagnate and later on forgoten on this digital world.

Concerning employment, machines needs operator to produce more. More production needs more salespersonnel for marketing and other support activities that needs more people to fill the services needed.

Technology properly use improves the quality of a product without sacrificing the flavor and tatse of the noodle.

We must be the moving hope for change not abandoning the tradition but just improving it.


take it easy people. i think mang rey is only leaning towards technology to produce the same quality noodles. now, whether this is existing or not, we don't know.

the other part of his statement is about the 200 kilo per day production. this is an age old question even large scale companies ask themselves. do we produce more (of course given that they can already consistently produce the same product either by getting more kabayos or machine made)? it is therefore production vs. marketing. do they have a market for more than 200 kilos? is it financially sound to spend more money in production and marketing? maybe they make the same amount of money after you take in consideration the investment they put in to produce and market the product.

in reality, the rule of thumb here is that you do not take either production and marketing over the other. they are like your left and right hands. you need both of them functioning at the same time and at the same level.

unfortunately, we really cannot derive any answers from merely reading a few paragraphs about a company. we need actual data to actually construct a good working plan. so, until all the data is in...200 kilos made on a traditional 'kabayo' it is.

you are assuming too much. how do you know they can sell more than 200 kilos? how do you know they stopped getting bigger? how do you know they did not/ are not looking for that technology?

Sounds like a great way to make quality noodles! My girlfriend loves to make homemade noodles, and I'll see if I can get one of these "riding pins" for her, heehe. Keep it low-tech!

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I understand why everyone have come lashing at Mangrey but he has a very valid point. I do value tradition and maintaining your quality over quantity but there's always room for improvement. If they have a recipe which is 40 years old, perhaps looking now for other ways to prepare noodles might help them for next 40-50 years without compromising on quality. But apart from thinking all this worldly stuff and long-term...you know what satisfies a person and relaxes them? When you come back to a place after a very tough day which hasn't changed a bit while the whole world around it rapidly grows, nothing makes you feel better and great than that feeling. So yes with all others I agree that some things shouldn't change.

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If we do it by machine they will come out with a fine texture. Customers can tell the difference.

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I understand where mangrey is coming from, but it does occur to me that probably the Ma family isnt after more profit if it takes for the age-old tradition to be compromised... Anyhow, it's refreshing to know there are people like the Mas embracing tradition than change... kudos to the Ma family.

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This page contains a single entry by Karen Galarpe published on November 2, 2009 1:52 PM.

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