WHO says everyone wants to be fair-skinned?

Every second week of January, Kalibonhons and tourists paint their skins black to become part of the Ati-Atihan Festival. In our recent visit, my colleague Alex Villafania and I had the chance of getting our skin blackened and dress up like an “Ati.”

Dressing up like an Ati was not easy. As early as 4 o’clock in the morning, we braved the cold weather in Kalibo and went to Lucas, also known as “Tatay Oca” Cristobal’s house. Tatay Oca, the leader of the Morongga tribe, welcomed us in their home, where members of the tribe, mostly teenagers, were already eating breakfast.

The members lined up as Tatay Oca spread the black oxide using a green sponge on their faces. When it was my turn, I felt my skin absorbing the cold liquid. It was as if a make-up artist is preparing the foundation for further make-up. The only difference here is that my fair skin is being turned into black.

After my face was all covered in black oxide, another tribe member painted white stripes on my cheeks, nose and chin. After that, they lent us costumes made of scrap materials, including mirrors, painted tahong (shellfish) and chopped bamboo shoots. They then took our photo as remembrance. When I later saw the picture, I must confess that I could not recognize myself except for the bangs.

At around 7:30 am, we –together with the tribe–marched towards the parade’s starting point. The streets were wet due to some early morning drizzle but it did not stop the festivities.

Around 30 tribes, dressed in colorful and outlandish costumes representing their tribe danced the “sadsad.”

According to Filipino historian Marcela Tinagan, the first Ati-Atihan festival happened in 1212. This was when 10 Bornean datus sealed a peace pact with the Aetas who let them settle in Panay after their escape from Sultan Makatunaw’s regime. As a sign of their appreciation, the Malays smudged soot onto their skin to look like the Aetas. The Ati-Atihan festival served as a celebration of the time when these two races came together.

But the festival is apparently not only a historical event but a religious celebration of the feast of the Sto. Niño.

Filipino historian Beato dela Cruz wrote that in 1750, Fray Andres de Aguirre baptized 1,000 inhabitants of the town. These inhabitants were reported to have experienced miracles. Since then devotees of the Sto. Nino dance to nonstop beat of the drums in harmony with the high-pitched bell lyres. Since we were part of the tribe, we joined the dance. You really don’t need to be a good dancer to actually do this. You could easily groove to the sounds of the drums and bell lyres.

The Ati-Atihan celebration culminates with the procession of the Sto.Nino on the 3rd Sunday of January. In all the processions that I’ve witnessed, the Kalibo de Sto. Nino procession stood out. Devotees drank beer and danced with their Sto. Nino images. This makes the Ati-Atihan festival one of the most attended festivals in the country. Hence it has earned the title of being the “Mother of all Philippine festivals.”

Sooting one’s skin during the Ati-Atihan Festival is more than the whitening trend for its significance lies beyond history and culture.