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Charmed by Ilocandia

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By Sharon Robas-Macawile Inquirer WE'VE heard and read so much about Ilocos, its sights, beaches and food. So when the opportunity for us to visit the place comes, my hubby and I pack our bags and prepare ourselves for the Ilocandia experience. We've always wanted to go to Ilocos not only to enjoy the beach but to learn something about the rich historical and cultural stuff the region is known for. After a long and winding night trip, we wake up in Pagudpud, Ilocos Norte. Dubbed the "Boracay of the North," Pagudpud beaches boast white sand and clear waters. They’re also less crowded than their Visayas counterpart. The excitement grows the moment our feet touch the cool waters. We are warned that the waters can go deep. Why? Because the sand is very soft and the waves can literally wash you away. The Bangui wind farm can be seen visibly from the beach and provides a perfect backdrop to the pristine waters, which are best not only for swimming but for boating and kayaking as well. We then head to the Patapat Bridge and have our photos taken, just like what most tourists do, with its picturesque landscape. We also make a quick stop at the Bangui view deck for a better view of the "giant electric fans" of the wind farm. A first in Southeast Asia, the 15 turbines supply power to Ilocos Norte. The century-old Cape Bojeador lighthouse in Burgos, which still works up to this day, is also a must-see. The magnificent view at the top is simply breathtaking. We exit Pagudpud and its neighboring towns while mesmerized by the beauty of nature surrounding the place -- the lush mountains and trees, the seas, and the countless cows that seem to find solace in their bucolic setting. Bright and clear The capital city of Laoag impresses us with its cleanliness and its maaliwalas feel. Well, it's no surprise since Laoag means bright and clear! It's also often referred to as the "sunshine city of the North." We are lucky to stay near the heart of the city, and what better way to explore the place than by taking a walk. A stone's throw away from the Ilocos Norte Capitol is the famous Sinking Bell Tower of Laoag. Although sandwiched within the commercial area, this landmark never fails to catch the attention of tourists. The remarkably clean Laoag public market is also nearby. Pedestrian lanes are visible enough for us not to miss it. The famous empanada is everywhere. There's also the St. William Cathedral where we hear Mass, in Ilokano! It is our first time to hear Mass in a different dialect, and the only time we get to sing along is when "Kordero ng Diyos" is sung. We also notice that during offertory, churchgoers buy lighted vigil candles inside the church and offer these at the altar. Our second day in Ilocos Norte brings us to the Malacañang of the North in Paoay. There isn't much to see inside except the spacious rooms of the late President Marcos, his first lady and their children except for Bongbong who, the guide says, often stayed in his beach house. The mansion overlooks the tranquil Paoay Lake and golf course. Paoay Church, a Unesco Heritage Site, with its magnificent facade and belfry, is also a sight to behold. The Marcos house and museum in Batac, where photos and memorabilia of the late president are displayed, draw crowds everyday. The late president's preserved body can be viewed here, but no cameras are allowed inside the mausoleum, to the dismay of many curious visitors. In Sarrat, where the late president was born, can be found the equally majestic Sta. Monica Church and ruins. It has become more popularly known as the church where Irene Marcos and Greggy Araneta exchanged vows. Just as with the Paoay Church, the Sta. Monica Church belfry is separated from the church. Our guide says this was to prevent the tower from toppling into and damaging the church in the event of an earthquake. The Sand Dunes of Ilocos is also a popular tourist site. The desert setting became a favorite location of the "Panday" movies of FPJ and its recent remake on television. Historic village After touring the north, we proceed to Ilocos Sur and explore the famous city of Vigan. First stop is the pagburnayan or pottery-making factory where countless jars in different shapes and sizes are made. We also drop by the ancestral house of the Crisologos, a known political clan in Vigan, before we take our kalesa ride to the historic Vigan Heritage Village. Tourists ride the kalesa, the only means of transportation allowed inside the heritage village, to view the centuries-old houses of the city. Souvenir items and pasalubong also abound in the village. A side trip to the sprawling Baluarte of Gov. Chavit Singson is a welcome treat to animal lovers as the place teems with tigers, deer, horses, ostriches and many more. Ilocos is also famous for its cuisine. Aside from the famous empanada and longganisa (by the way, we prefer the Laoag longganisa over the Vigan variety), there’s also the pasalubong staples of chichacorn and Pasuquin biscocho. We have fond memories of the Ilokano pinakbet in Pagudpud, so when we dine at the homey La Preciosa Restaurant in Laoag, we are curious to try out other Ilokano dishes. We are amused by the interesting sound of the dishes on the menu, such as poqui-poqui and warek-warek but in the end, we settle for the famous and easy-to-pronounce bagnet. Ilocos is really sun, sea, sand and a lot more. It is the perfect getaway for weary urban souls.

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